Botanizing at Cheeseman Provincial Park

The ferry arrived in Port aux Basque around 11:30 (Newfoundland time) and we decided to drive just a few miles up to Cheeseman Provincial Park after a mostly sleepless night back in North Sydney. After setting up the tent and taking a shower we felt alive enough to take a walk to the beach - one of the few sandy ones in Newfoundland. The path led through a nice set of bogs and heaths and gave Jude a chance to get her first look at Newfoundland's botany.


Pink Lady's Slipper were common...


..as were Dragon's Mouth Orchids...


...which occurred in large bunches in a few spots.


There was lots of Pale or Bog Laurel.


A closeup of the flower.


There was also plenty of Bakeapple plants (also known as Cloudberry).


A closeup of the flower and leaves.


Labrador Tea was in bloom.


Silverweed,


Starflower,


...and of course, Pitcher Plants.


And finally, a plant Jude really had to get down to see...


Round-leaved Sundew (with ant).

The Crossing

As it turns out the loading call doesn't come until 4:00 AM just as dawn starts to show on the horizon.


Around 5:00 AM, the MV Smallwood finally leaves North Sydney, headed north for Port aux Basques, NFLD.


Not far out of the harbor, we pass a greater shearwater, who does his best to get out of the way of the ferry.


Further out in the Cabot Strait, we spot some arctic jellyfish.


A northern fulmar runs across the water before taking off.


As the Smallwood approaches Newfoundland around 11:00 AM, a few northern gannets fly overhead.

Another Trip to Newfoundland

After last year's solo trip back to Newfoundland, Jude insisted she wanted to go along with me for a trip this summer. I figured I would use the experience gained from last year's trip to plan this one a little better. This would prove to be futile.

Unlike last year, I gave us 14 hours to get to the ferry instead of 12 so we could drive a little slower, save gas and have a bit of time to enjoy the trip. As it turned out, we arrived at the ferry terminal in North Sydney at 11:30 PM - about 2 hours before departure time. Unfortunately, as we paid for our tickets we were told the ferry was running a bit late and probably wouldn't leave until 2:30 AM.


Jude enjoys a tub of french fries - about the only edible food served at the terminal cafeteria at this hour.


We curl up for a comfortable nap while waiting for the loading call.

Saint John River - Day 6

Our last day on the river. A 16 mile paddle down to Pellitier's Campground in Saint Francis where the truck and van are parked. Over night the gauge at Ninemile reached a low of 940 CFS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

6:15 AM - I take a walk this morning upstream to get another look at Big Rapids. However, after a mile or so I've only reached the bottom of the rapids and it begins to rain again. Before I return to camp I take a photo looking downstream towards Allagash Village.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8:33 AM - After a quick breakfast we get underway again. Despite the rain, the weather is warmer and we see our first blackflies of the trip as well as a pair of otters.

 

 

 

 

 

 

8:40 AM - Mark and John paddle past the a river front home in Allagash Village.

 

 

 

 

 

 

11:56 AM - 14 miles later we reach the end of the trip and begin unloading the canoes one last time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

12:12 PM - After a change of clothes and a bagel or two, we pose behind the Blue Hole for a group shot.

Saint John River - Day 5

We wake up to overcast skies and slightly warmer temperatures. The stream gauge at Ninemile Bridge reads 1000 CFS this morning.


5:30 AM - I take a walk over the to US Border Patrol cabin on the other side of the Big Black River from our campsite.

5:35 AM - An old wood stove rusting in the scrub behind the cabin.


5:45 AM - Fiddlehead.


5:50 AM - The bridge over the Big Black River.


8:05 AM - Back at the campsite we load the canoes as it begins to rain lightly.


8:10 AM - John looks ready to pull a few lobster pots.


8:24 AM - Once in the canoes, a steady rainfall begins.


8:25 AM - Dan dons his raincoat.


10:15 AM - Following Dick and Chris through a small rapid.


11:45 AM - We take a break at Castonia Farm and find this old hand-dug well.


3:38 PM - We spend a wet afternoon checking out the campsites above Big Rapids, but they're either dark and muddy or have been replaced by cabins. We decide to push on through Big Rapids and stop at the old campground at the bottom. Here, Dick and Chris finish the first leg of the rapids. Soon after this photo, Richard and I have a near disaster on the second leg, getting hung up on a pointy rock in the middle of a chute. Thanks to Richard's concise instructions ("Don't lean upstream!" "Don't do anything stupid!") we manage to get off the rock and finish the rapids without incident. My only regret is not taking a photo of our predicament .


4:58 PM - Finally at the abandoned campground at the bottom of Big Rapids. After cleaning a few years worth of beer cans and other debris from the fire ring, Dick (pyro-man) gets a fire going in the rain with the help of Dan and John.


5:00 PM - Chris, Mark and Richard huddle under the small shelter during a downpour.


7:28 PM - Dick decides to use the last of the flour for another bannick bread. Richard helps out by cracking-wise.


8:00 PM - A few of us take a walk up the road for a last look at Big Rapids. From this height they don't look too big.

Saint John River - Day 4

Another cold morning - but no blackflies! The water level has dropped to 1190 CFS at the Ninemile Bridge stream gauge.


5:30 AM - Mist rises over Seven Islands.


5:35 AM - John and Dan do a little birdwatching before breakfast.


5:40 AM - The fields around the campsite are littered with old farm equipment.


5:45 AM - The rim of an old wagon wheel.


5:50 AM - I have no idea what this was used for, but it looks deadly.


6:00 AM - Dick does a little baking before breakfast.


6:15 AM - A path through the woods.


6:30 AM - The Seven Islands sign.


7:00 AM - John pumps water for breakfast.


8:30 AM - Loading the canoes yet again.


9:28 AM - Priestly Bridge.


9:50 AM - Paddling through a small riffle.


10:15 AM - Sternmen portrait.


10:20 AM - A short break on a small island.


11:13 AM - Mark and John negotiate a small rapid.


1:06 PM - Lunch break.


1:14 PM - The first Furbish's Lousewort is spotted.


1:20 PM - An Eastern Comma butterfly.


3:00 PM - We finally reach Big Black Rapids. The rocks along the shore record the power of the water here during spring runoff. However, the river is running out of water for us and our challenge will be to find a way through the exposed boulders.


3:04 PM - Richard points out a good looking line.


3:05 PM - John - "You mean by that boulder?" Richard - "No, more to the left."


3:06 PM - "You mean this one?" "No, further out." "What about over there?" "Yeah, but see the big rock at the bottom of the chute?" "How about we go river right?"


3:07 PM - "So you think we oughta start right and then go left." "No - start left and then go right!" "But what about THAT rock?" "Which one?" "Hey! Look at that warbler!"


3:20 PM - Finally, Dan and John start their run.


3:21 PM - Looks good! Draw right!


3:22 PM - Watch that rock!


3:23 PM - Mark and John take their turn.


3:24 PM - Don't worry - the Blue Hole will just bounce off that big rock.


3:25 PM - Everyone takes a moment to regroup before paddling the rest of the rapid.


9:00 PM - After a tough whiffle ball game, Dan stares into the fire.